HOUSE OF GUCCI

HOUSE OF GUCCI

The Gucci family has repeatedly dissociated itself from the portrait that the film portrays, and I will not go into the merits, but now I can finally say that Lady Gaga in the House of Gucci is truly credible, for the vision I had of it.

So, taking up the talk on Patrizia Reggiani, apparently Lady Germanotta’s decision not to meet her did not affect the interpretation, despite Reggiani being annoyed.

Obviously I observed clothes, accessories, and outfits in general, with particular interest both for Gucci pieces and for 80s looks, and I have to say that I enjoyed the work of costume designer Yanti Yates.

Very scrupulous work, starting from months of study in the archives of the Gucci maison.

In an interview with the New York Times,  available in full on Instagram, Yanti Yates stated that Lady Gaga was hugely involved, not least because she is a complete clotheshorse and looks marvelous in everything. She was hugely focused on how her character might appear at a particular moment, and had very strong views on aspects like hair and makeup.

But also difficult work, again according to the statements made during the interview: I would create initial selections, and then she would select from there.

Gaga selected.

It also seems that there have been days when for her it was “not today.”

Moreover, the same Gucci website reports as an iconic statement from Yanti Yates: “Lady Gaga told me that in this movie she wanted to dress like her Italian mom. To create her looks, I was able to draw on both her personal and historical Gucci archives.”

Like her Italian mom

How good does this sentence sound?

At the same time, however, I have this doubt that is spinning in my head, so help me understand if my perception is deceiving me since, actually, in the early 70s despite I wasn’t really in the world from longer (also now I am not, but this is a other story).

Unfortunately I could not find the image of the scene in which Maurizio Gucci introduces Patrizia to his father Rodolfo, but more or less the same goes for the floral dress in this picture.

Obviously I’m nobody to question the reconstruction, which in all other situations I have admired, and I stress it well, but the idea of this dress leaves me perplexed. I’m wrong, right?

I leave you this roundup of outfits.

In addition to the clothes, House of Gucci offers the vision of a fantastic series of precious “vintage” cars.

In particular, I really loved the way director Ridley Scott frames the arrivals at Rodolfo Gucci’s home: focused on the entrance. From the outside to the outside.

This shot occurs more than once in the movie, with different cars arriving in front of that entrance.

For me it was a sort of “story within history,” almost a symbol to mark the time.

In the picture below, with the same principle, in contrast we are witnessing a departure.

Which is also a beginning: the beginning of a strategy for Maurizio being back in the company.

For the rest, I refer you to the review by Matavitatau, me, a bit like Cruella, I really enjoyed the non-original soundtrack.

As for the floral dresses, I felt a sort of temporal disorientation that in some cases conquered me, in others it left me a kind of question mark.

For example, I liked the choice for George Michael’s Faith as soundtrack of the wedding scene: despite the anachronistic incongruity, it gave me a joyfulness that counterbalanced the void created by the absence of Maurizio’s family.

On the contrary, I was perplexed listening to Ritornerai by Bruno Lauzi as the background to the scene in which Aldo Gucci goes with Maurizio and Patrizia to the estate where their historic breeding is located. The song is wonderful, ça va sans dire, and the meaning is centered on returning to the origins, but for my personal perception it is as if something screeches.

Apart from that, I could list one song more beautiful than the other, and I would like to propose them all: Here comes the rain again by Eurythmics, Heart of glass by Blondie, Ashes to ashes by the White Duke David Bowie, Blue Monday by New Order, Una notte speciale by Alice, Sono bugiarda by Caterina Caselli, but also Largo al factotum from Il Barbiere di Siviglia by Rossini, Madame Butterfly and much more.

As you choose which one you prefer to listen to first, here are some coffees.

And… the final blessing.

STYLISTIC SKIN

STYLISTIC SKIN

A few days ago, Antonio was talking about skin on his blog pointing out rightly how in the dialogues of the movie Free Guy skin was literally translated in Italian to the detriment of the real meaning of the term.

The Skins I would like to talk to you about are Costumes Fit for the Battle Royale mode of the Fornite video game signed by Demna Gvsalia  creative director of Balenciaga.

Digital fashion.

It is the first time that haute-couture colonizes a video game with its own brand, in this case it is a partnership between Balenciaga and Epic Games

Ramirez and Doggo among the iconic characters in the version of the luxury brand.

However, a real capsule is also associated with the digital outfits, available on the Balenciaga e-commerce site

The campaign for the presentation of the fruit of this unprecedented collaboration is called Strange times and also includes a photographic contest, or, better said, Fortographic.

 

The best photos posted on Twitter under #Fortography and #StrangeTimes or under the Strange Times post on Reddit will be included in the game.

Between reality and virtual, I throw a dream there: who knows that one day someone will post coffee photos for KCDC …

ATHFLOW

ATHFLOW

Athflow derives from the merger of ATHLEISURE and FLOW.

Athleisure in turn is a hybrid term composed of athletic, that is sports and leisure, that is free time, and indicates a style of clothing that is practical and suitable for sports but at the same time fashionable, therefore also adaptable to other less informal.

And what does the flow add now? The cozy style: comfortable, relaxed, seemingly disinterested.

The idea of decontextualizing garments, extracting them from standard use and even more the deconstruction dates back to the early 70s thanks to, by now you know: King Giorgio, ça va sans dire.

In this last year, however, smart working has created a new need: to adapt the home outfit to a more formal connotation if necessary, in the case of conference calls, webinars, and so on.

Doing a search among the major trends, since I have a certain amount of springs, I had a déjà vu: already in the glorious 80s we used this genre. My memory was fixed in particular on a white jumpsuit with the red word United Workers of Americanino that I used a lot, very similar to the one worn by Chiara Ferragni here

In fact, almost all the stylists had presented knitwear in a rather universal way, precisely on the wave of the concept of comfort.

And again I find myself thinking of the maxi pullovers that reigned in the early 80s … for example, this Salvatore Ferragamo dress evokes them in full.

The novelty I like is the knitted trousers, here I would say that between comfort and warmth we are at the top.
Guess? I chose a random color …

What do you think of this contamination?
Has your way of dressing changed?

In general what is your favorite outfit?

UPCYCLING: CREATIVE RECYCLING

UPCYCLING: CREATIVE RECYCLING

Upcycling according to the Cambridge  dictionary: the activity of making new furniture, objects etc. out of old or used things or waste material.
This is not recycling, it’s upcycling.

A broad concept that includes many areas and various all-round products.
However, initially I would like to focus in particular on fashion: also to continue the discussion a little in the wake of the considerations on reuse that I was pleased to read in the comments on Looop.

Starting as always with King Giorgio and with his “I’m saying yes to recycling” it must be said that in this case we are dealing with recovered or recycled materials, while upcycling represents a next step, it is not “simple” recycling.

Many stylists are in fact creating clothes, capsules, or real collections, reusing vintage garments which, skilfully revisited, give life to new expressions of their art.

In this regard we can take a look at Upcycled by Miu Miu: an exclusive and special collection of recycled and reworked vintage pieces, built around unsigned period pieces dating back to the period between the thirties and the eighties, which includes 80 unique and numbered dresses.

Another example is Recicla by John Galliano for Maison Margiela term that derives from the fusion of recycle and replica: a series of limited edition garments included in the collection, which bear the characteristic white label on which, however, the origin and the period are now indicated.
I especially like Wicker bags.

After all, Martin Margiela can perhaps be defined as a precursor of the deconstruction that has always been his prerogative, and, quoting him, the association of ideas with Jean Paul Gaultier is immediate.

I have been following JPG with particular attention since he designed the costumes for Luc Besson’s The Fifth Element: Leeloo is iconic to me.
And I would say that his show… bordello laughing as he himself defined it, as well as absolutely spectacular, was an upcycling roundup of the 50 years of fashion he went through.

The grief is for his goodbye to his career, but I would say that more than a abandonment it is a great ending.
could also launch a contest: how many names and quotes can you count? As long as you can really list everything …

Since we are in France, the Renaissance project, supported among others by the Kéring group, is also worth mentioning. 

The founder and president is Philippe Guilet, who has worked with many stylists such as Jean Paul Gaultier, but also Thierry Mugler, Karl Lagerfeld and Donna Karan.

This project implies a true and proper upcycling couture, and, in addition to the reuse of the garments, it also provides for the reintegration of people excluded from work, according to the idea of offering them a new life too.

The garments are donated by individuals who become ambassadors and ambassadors of the brand.
Renaissance also bets on the outskirts of Paris precisely to integrate and provide opportunities.

What do you think about it? Have you ever reused or recovered some old outfit that came out of a trunk?

I confess that I fell in love with some dresses that my mom had kept in the wardrobe for years, and that I wore them on special occasions.
Above all I would remember a similar sleeveless black velvet sheath dress with a slightly trapezoidal cut and a semigloss thread of black trimmings around the round and very closed neckline.

I thought it could be fun, in view of this particular New Year’s Eve (although it is an anniversary that I do not celebrate) to reinvent a dress with something recovered in the house. What do you say?

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