CHASING STRANDS OF PEARLS

CHASING STRANDS OF PEARLS

Lela pointed out the story of Meri Shervashidze telling me that she was the first model to walk the catwalk with a string of pearls for Chanel and that she stood out for the sophisticated style and way of giving beauty as you can see here where Lela added a tag for me:

A very beautiful story that must be told, since I believe it is not sufficiently known.

Unfortunately, there is little information about her: for example, I tried to search through official Chanel websites but I could not find anything.
Maybe you can be better than me.

According to Vogue, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel herself was photographed in conversation with the Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich of Russia, wearing her pearl necklaces in 1920.

So a year before Meri arrived in Paris.

But let’s take a step back: Meri Shervashidze was born in 1888 in Batumi and descends from the family of the sovereign prince of Abkhazia.

Abkhazia and South Ossetia are other from Tbilisi and from the rest of Georgia as the Observatory tells us but you Lela correct me if I’m wrong.

When she was still a young girl, the family moved to St. Petersburg where Meri became the empress’s maid of honor.

In 1918 the wedding with Gigusha Eristavi, here there is a small family tree.

At the sunset of Georgian independence, and shortly before the arrival of the Bolsheviks, Meri embarks directly to Paris, stopping in Constantinople in Turkey where she participates in a beauty contest, winning it.

Arrived in the Ville Lumière, Meri settled in Rue de la Tour, sixteenth arrondissement, near Bois de Boulogne and it seems it was the aforementioned Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich who introduced her to Coco.

Paris in those years frames a particular type of beauty, so much so that the writer Alexander Vasilyev wrote a book: “Beauty in Exile” or artists, models and nobility who fled the Russian revolution and influenced the world of fashion.

Meri’s style and elegance do not go unnoticed: Saveli Sorin paints her portrait which is located in the palace of the Prince of Monaco.

Meri is also photographed by Man Ray but emblematic is the meeting with Galaktion Tabidze in 1935 because it is believed that her compositions in Georgian are dedicated to her although some publications are earlier .

Here you can listen to the poem in the original language, personally it strikes me to hear the name “Meri” which by now in the light of this path to find its traces, for me it has assumed the typical aura of women who have been able to leave a mark.

And because elegance comes from within, Meri Shervashidze spent the last years of her life in a nursing home preserving beauty, nobility and majesty until the last day of her life, at the age of 97.
She is buried with her husband in the Saint Genevieve des Bois cemetery.

I remember the period in which I listened to Destini incrociati – Fates crossed and I find the story of Meri could be told in this way, even if I later found that Giacomo Zito and his collaborators have paired Coco Chanel with Luchino Visconti

we can always make a new episode, or not?

And asking ourselves what “we can do”… I would say that we rather cannot talk about elegance and strings of pearls without mentioning her
Here the post with the iconic Breakfast at Tiffany’s scene. 

And you, do you have other strings of pearls to chase?

SOLSTICES COMARI AND TAROTS

SOLSTICES COMARI AND TAROTS

itsIn recent days I have crossed various thoughts, starting from Gabriella‘s post on the Water of San Giovanni but also on the rite of fire to become comari, not in the sense that I had so far given to this word.

Therefore, water and fire.
Water and fire that according to Cicero “are not of more universal use than friendship.”
Water and fire, two of the four elements of life.

The water and the fire that the druids define Litha that is the light of the shore because the fire, or rather the sun, which has reached the zenith and has reached its maximum point, plunges into the waters, on the beach, at the meeting point between land and sea.

Of the summer solstice, which Alidada explained masterfully in her Uno spicchio di cielo, I fell in love many years ago reading Sarum by Edward Rutherfurd who, starting from the ice age, sees the birth of Stonehenge which in my imagination goes far beyond the status of “ringing rocks” for example, and is covered in mystery with that aftertaste of legend that I love.

But returning to Litha, I would like to resume a little the concept of Samhain: moment in which the veil between the two worlds is thinner, but moving the contrast between “above and below” just like a celebration of the opposite, which of course I love. It is no coincidence that Litha is also defined as a day out of time.

In this reversal, it is as if the elements of fire and water overturn their roles in a magical union.
A suggestive image representing this magic is realized in the floating candles.

Fire, water.
Bonfire and dew.
Waves and fires.

This is how Shakespeare in his A Midsummer Night’s Dream describes the reply of a fairy:
Over hill, over dale,
Thorough bush, thorough brier,
Over park, over pale,
Thorough flood, thorough fire.
I do wander everywhere
Swifter than the moon’s sphere.
And I serve the fairy queen
To dew her orbs upon the green.

Fire, water.
Sun and moon.

And then I remembered the advice QueenFaee Studio gave me in the comments here where sun and moon draw inspiration from the Visconti Sforza tarot cards, just to point out the curious coincidences, and my connection with the land …

This short film by Garrone for Dior enchants like the magical floating of the stars under the marvelous vault of the Tuscan castle of Sammezzano which, exactly as if inverted upside down, leads them to float in the water of the fountain.

Maria Grazia Chiuri wanted to give a reinterpretation of the tarot cards by transporting them into a fairy-tale but also an artistic dimension, in which the precious embroideries and the refined textures of the fabrics give life to works of art: living paintings, which not only allow themselves to be observed, but drag on a journey in search of answers.

The first dress, among other things, struck me: leaves on lace, a sort of mixture of fashion and nature that not by chance I immediately found magical, and that made me think in particular of the tree in the photo under the title, with its dress of ivy, because Nature dresses wonderfully.

But perhaps my absolute favorite is Le Pendu.

At this point you will tell me “but what does all this have to do with it”

In reality, by crossing traditions, legends and fairytale atmospheres, I would like to interpret this summer as a series of cards that can offer a reading key that allows the re-appropriation of the magic of feeling aligned with the sun, ready to welcome the light.

And you?
What do you see or predict in your cards?
Water, fire, or what else?

PS: in the comments the Keep Calm version of Le Fou … or an upside-down creature who wants to be a comare, who is not silent like a cicada, who accumulates like an ant and who knows how to be heavy as a stone, but also loooong more “suspended” than Stonehenge laughing

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD 80 YEARS ?! NO: SHE IS TIMELESS

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD 80 YEARS ?! NO: SHE IS TIMELESS

Vivienne Westwood was born on April 8, 1941 in Derbyshire, a land that I immediately associate with Austenian atmospheres, but I have always attributed a Scottish soul to her, and I certainly do not feel I can attribute her 80 years in the personal sense.

The experience, on the other hand, is immeasurable, and in this regard I would be rather inclined to remember a different anniversary: in 1971, 50 years ago, in Chelsea – 430 King’s road a boutique was born destined to become history and become part of the places to visit: Let it rock.

It was punk at its deepest root, destined to evolve by continuing to be ahead of its time and to transform itself into the World’s End with the famous clock running backwards, obviously a “pearl” for me.

Another anniversary, this time to turn 40 is Pirates (1981): the first show, which went directly into history. In this video you can see the iconic Squiggle pattern inspired by the marine rope, subsequently reused in many variations on garments and accessories of all kinds.

In fact lately I’ve often talked about bags, so this time maybe it’s the case to take shoes more into consideration, or, better still, let’s stay on Pirate Boots, what do you think?

The symbolic fabric of the 90s, on the other hand, is Harris Tweed, idea born seeing a girl in the subway wearing a Harris Tweed jacket, in fact, and a bag containing ballet shoes.

As iconic garments we can directly consider the Time Machine Collection: National Museums Scotland

From the 2000s I would like to mention in particular the costumes created for the ballet of the New Year’s concert in Wien. I remember that I was looking without knowing anything and that I immediately felt the need to go and find who had created that look that had so impressed me.

Vivienne strikes now and forever.
This is her birthday message.
This is her featuring Without You from My Fair Lady.
These are the issues on which she invites us to reflect.

And she writes them with “footprints” … who knows me “already knows” that they have always been my signature … right Luciana?

STARTUP “IN BAG”

STARTUP “IN BAG”

If I say work, what do you answer me?

I would like the answer to be positive and satisfied, to be able to draw up a sort of countertrend in this BLACK period from the working point of view, and not only, of course.

The mass media repeat the statistics according to which the most women lose their jobs, which even before it is not that they were widely used as resources … and then thoughts run, ride, we do not give up!
Yes, but what do we make up?

Start up.
According to the Mise the Innovative Startup is a young company, with a high technological content, with strong growth potential.
Do you know any of them?

In my wandering I literally bounced on the Bouncing Bags by Elisabetta Viola that I find a stroke of genius in the field of upcycling I highly recommend you take a look at the site and the concept.

What struck me most is the idea.
Undoubtedly made with impeccable style.
Pure quality. Chapeau.

But I also had another love at first sight.
I admit, it was first of all for the name: I sew so I don’t kill people … what could I ever add? With a brand like this he has already won everything.

But no, and it is to be expected: originality is creativity and therefore Marianna Andolfi offers us a very particular process through two ancient techniques.

Waxing with untreated beeswax and hand printing with carved stamps. Here you can find the procedure.

Philosophy and a pinch of magic.
I absolutely agree, after all, as far as I’m concerned, bags undoubtedly represent a magical dimension …

I always joke about the contents of my bag, indeed, I take the opportunity to relaunch the idea of the world that bags can hold abat jour included or excluded? What do you say? After all, you never know …

A DIVE INTO THE 80’S WITH HEART EYES

A DIVE INTO THE 80’S WITH HEART EYES

I will also be biased, you know by now, but don’t miss this Emporio Armani fashion show!

Once again the fashion week remains under the banner of phygital but King Giorgio gives us a trip to the fabulous 80s complete with tunnels and fluorescent paths!

I looked at everything with heartfelt eyes: the wide high-waisted trousers, the short jackets, the suspenders (do you remember the use also as a martingale?) And then the black velvet, the textured fabrics, the purple, the rows of buttons, white shirts, herringbone, padded shoulders

My gray is inevitable in many variations, one more beautiful than the other! And I also loved the texture and warmth of the fabrics: something that can give a feeling of soft and snug fit, a cuddle, if you like.

Maybe even with a hint of athflow

So here I am for the umpteenth time grateful for the show: beauty to see, but also beauty as a means of transport. Sure, you can’t travel in space, but you can travel in memories.

What about the 80s? Have you lived them? Did you love them?

ATHFLOW

ATHFLOW

Athflow derives from the merger of ATHLEISURE and FLOW.

Athleisure in turn is a hybrid term composed of athletic, that is sports and leisure, that is free time, and indicates a style of clothing that is practical and suitable for sports but at the same time fashionable, therefore also adaptable to other less informal.

And what does the flow add now? The cozy style: comfortable, relaxed, seemingly disinterested.

The idea of decontextualizing garments, extracting them from standard use and even more the deconstruction dates back to the early 70s thanks to, by now you know: King Giorgio, ça va sans dire.

In this last year, however, smart working has created a new need: to adapt the home outfit to a more formal connotation if necessary, in the case of conference calls, webinars, and so on.

Doing a search among the major trends, since I have a certain amount of springs, I had a déjà vu: already in the glorious 80s we used this genre. My memory was fixed in particular on a white jumpsuit with the red word United Workers of Americanino that I used a lot, very similar to the one worn by Chiara Ferragni here

In fact, almost all the stylists had presented knitwear in a rather universal way, precisely on the wave of the concept of comfort.

And again I find myself thinking of the maxi pullovers that reigned in the early 80s … for example, this Salvatore Ferragamo dress evokes them in full.

The novelty I like is the knitted trousers, here I would say that between comfort and warmth we are at the top.
Guess? I chose a random color …

What do you think of this contamination?
Has your way of dressing changed?

In general what is your favorite outfit?

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