VIVIENNE WESTWOOD 80 YEARS ?! NO: SHE IS TIMELESS

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD 80 YEARS ?! NO: SHE IS TIMELESS

Vivienne Westwood was born on April 8, 1941 in Derbyshire, a land that I immediately associate with Austenian atmospheres, but I have always attributed a Scottish soul to her, and I certainly do not feel I can attribute her 80 years in the personal sense.

The experience, on the other hand, is immeasurable, and in this regard I would be rather inclined to remember a different anniversary: in 1971, 50 years ago, in Chelsea – 430 King’s road a boutique was born destined to become history and become part of the places to visit: Let it rock.

It was punk at its deepest root, destined to evolve by continuing to be ahead of its time and to transform itself into the World’s End with the famous clock running backwards, obviously a “pearl” for me.

Another anniversary, this time to turn 40 is Pirates (1981): the first show, which went directly into history. In this video you can see the iconic Squiggle pattern inspired by the marine rope, subsequently reused in many variations on garments and accessories of all kinds.

In fact lately I’ve often talked about bags, so this time maybe it’s the case to take shoes more into consideration, or, better still, let’s stay on Pirate Boots, what do you think?

The symbolic fabric of the 90s, on the other hand, is Harris Tweed, idea born seeing a girl in the subway wearing a Harris Tweed jacket, in fact, and a bag containing ballet shoes.

As iconic garments we can directly consider the Time Machine Collection: National Museums Scotland

From the 2000s I would like to mention in particular the costumes created for the ballet of the New Year’s concert in Wien. I remember that I was looking without knowing anything and that I immediately felt the need to go and find who had created that look that had so impressed me.

Vivienne strikes now and forever.
This is her birthday message.
This is her featuring Without You from My Fair Lady.
These are the issues on which she invites us to reflect.

And she writes them with “footprints” … who knows me “already knows” that they have always been my signature … right Luciana?

STARTUP “IN BAG”

STARTUP “IN BAG”

If I say work, what do you answer me?

I would like the answer to be positive and satisfied, to be able to draw up a sort of countertrend in this BLACK period from the working point of view, and not only, of course.

The mass media repeat the statistics according to which the most women lose their jobs, which even before it is not that they were widely used as resources … and then thoughts run, ride, we do not give up!
Yes, but what do we make up?

Start up.
According to the Mise the Innovative Startup is a young company, with a high technological content, with strong growth potential.
Do you know any of them?

In my wandering I literally bounced on the Bouncing Bags by Elisabetta Viola that I find a stroke of genius in the field of upcycling I highly recommend you take a look at the site and the concept.

What struck me most is the idea.
Undoubtedly made with impeccable style.
Pure quality. Chapeau.

But I also had another love at first sight.
I admit, it was first of all for the name: I sew so I don’t kill people … what could I ever add? With a brand like this he has already won everything.

But no, and it is to be expected: originality is creativity and therefore Marianna Andolfi offers us a very particular process through two ancient techniques.

Waxing with untreated beeswax and hand printing with carved stamps. Here you can find the procedure.

Philosophy and a pinch of magic.
I absolutely agree, after all, as far as I’m concerned, bags undoubtedly represent a magical dimension …

I always joke about the contents of my bag, indeed, I take the opportunity to relaunch the idea of the world that bags can hold abat jour included or excluded? What do you say? After all, you never know …

A DIVE INTO THE 80’S WITH HEART EYES

A DIVE INTO THE 80’S WITH HEART EYES

I will also be biased, you know by now, but don’t miss this Emporio Armani fashion show!

Once again the fashion week remains under the banner of phygital but King Giorgio gives us a trip to the fabulous 80s complete with tunnels and fluorescent paths!

I looked at everything with heartfelt eyes: the wide high-waisted trousers, the short jackets, the suspenders (do you remember the use also as a martingale?) And then the black velvet, the textured fabrics, the purple, the rows of buttons, white shirts, herringbone, padded shoulders

My gray is inevitable in many variations, one more beautiful than the other! And I also loved the texture and warmth of the fabrics: something that can give a feeling of soft and snug fit, a cuddle, if you like.

Maybe even with a hint of athflow

So here I am for the umpteenth time grateful for the show: beauty to see, but also beauty as a means of transport. Sure, you can’t travel in space, but you can travel in memories.

What about the 80s? Have you lived them? Did you love them?

ATHFLOW

ATHFLOW

Athflow derives from the merger of ATHLEISURE and FLOW.

Athleisure in turn is a hybrid term composed of athletic, that is sports and leisure, that is free time, and indicates a style of clothing that is practical and suitable for sports but at the same time fashionable, therefore also adaptable to other less informal.

And what does the flow add now? The cozy style: comfortable, relaxed, seemingly disinterested.

The idea of decontextualizing garments, extracting them from standard use and even more the deconstruction dates back to the early 70s thanks to, by now you know: King Giorgio, ça va sans dire.

In this last year, however, smart working has created a new need: to adapt the home outfit to a more formal connotation if necessary, in the case of conference calls, webinars, and so on.

Doing a search among the major trends, since I have a certain amount of springs, I had a déjà vu: already in the glorious 80s we used this genre. My memory was fixed in particular on a white jumpsuit with the red word United Workers of Americanino that I used a lot, very similar to the one worn by Chiara Ferragni here

In fact, almost all the stylists had presented knitwear in a rather universal way, precisely on the wave of the concept of comfort.

And again I find myself thinking of the maxi pullovers that reigned in the early 80s … for example, this Salvatore Ferragamo dress evokes them in full.

The novelty I like is the knitted trousers, here I would say that between comfort and warmth we are at the top.
Guess? I chose a random color …

What do you think of this contamination?
Has your way of dressing changed?

In general what is your favorite outfit?

THE SUSPENDED TIME

THE SUSPENDED TIME

As already happened for the Micam and for the Milan Fashion Week again the men’s fashion week in Milan showed us a PHYGITAL version.

In particular, I was struck by Walter Chiapponi’s work for Tod’s

why this presentation in particular?

For the places: the setting is Villa Crespi ai Ronchi built by the architect Giuseppe de Finetti, a pupil of Adolf Loos, as a residence for moments of leisure and for hunting trips.

Beyond the architecture, I would emphasize the context, that is, the way in which a connection with the surrounding landscape can also be felt from within.

It is no coincidence that the theme chosen was #SevenT: that is the concept of seven days spent in a sort of isolation that returns an expansion of time measured with reflective cadences of quiet awareness.

I admit to being biased by the affection I have for these places, but the atmosphere of these sunsets, which contains a stark contrast to the winter cold, for me materializes in a transmutation of space as an antidote to solitude, as completion, but also as an expansion of the spirit.

The quote that is offered to us “It is not the destination so much as the journey, and I know exactly where to go” in a certain sense has the power to overturn the perception of stillness, and it is almost as if immobility could be transfigured.

In fact, this is what we are all looking for in this period.

Unfortunately, the luck of being able to immerse yourself in a place so enchanted as to seem mystical is not for everyone, however.

And then the alternative: getting lost in words, getting lost in reading are perhaps the most effective representation of how time can expand or contract.

What is time suspension for you?

Is it really possible to go beyond oneself and know how to meet others even in complete solitude as suggested in the conclusion?

UPCYCLING: CREATIVE RECYCLING

UPCYCLING: CREATIVE RECYCLING

Upcycling according to the Cambridge  dictionary: the activity of making new furniture, objects etc. out of old or used things or waste material.
This is not recycling, it’s upcycling.

A broad concept that includes many areas and various all-round products.
However, initially I would like to focus in particular on fashion: also to continue the discussion a little in the wake of the considerations on reuse that I was pleased to read in the comments on Looop.

Starting as always with King Giorgio and with his “I’m saying yes to recycling” it must be said that in this case we are dealing with recovered or recycled materials, while upcycling represents a next step, it is not “simple” recycling.

Many stylists are in fact creating clothes, capsules, or real collections, reusing vintage garments which, skilfully revisited, give life to new expressions of their art.

In this regard we can take a look at Upcycled by Miu Miu: an exclusive and special collection of recycled and reworked vintage pieces, built around unsigned period pieces dating back to the period between the thirties and the eighties, which includes 80 unique and numbered dresses.

Another example is Recicla by John Galliano for Maison Margiela term that derives from the fusion of recycle and replica: a series of limited edition garments included in the collection, which bear the characteristic white label on which, however, the origin and the period are now indicated.
I especially like Wicker bags.

After all, Martin Margiela can perhaps be defined as a precursor of the deconstruction that has always been his prerogative, and, quoting him, the association of ideas with Jean Paul Gaultier is immediate.

I have been following JPG with particular attention since he designed the costumes for Luc Besson’s The Fifth Element: Leeloo is iconic to me.
And I would say that his show… bordello laughing as he himself defined it, as well as absolutely spectacular, was an upcycling roundup of the 50 years of fashion he went through.

The grief is for his goodbye to his career, but I would say that more than a abandonment it is a great ending.
could also launch a contest: how many names and quotes can you count? As long as you can really list everything …

Since we are in France, the Renaissance project, supported among others by the Kéring group, is also worth mentioning. 

The founder and president is Philippe Guilet, who has worked with many stylists such as Jean Paul Gaultier, but also Thierry Mugler, Karl Lagerfeld and Donna Karan.

This project implies a true and proper upcycling couture, and, in addition to the reuse of the garments, it also provides for the reintegration of people excluded from work, according to the idea of offering them a new life too.

The garments are donated by individuals who become ambassadors and ambassadors of the brand.
Renaissance also bets on the outskirts of Paris precisely to integrate and provide opportunities.

What do you think about it? Have you ever reused or recovered some old outfit that came out of a trunk?

I confess that I fell in love with some dresses that my mom had kept in the wardrobe for years, and that I wore them on special occasions.
Above all I would remember a similar sleeveless black velvet sheath dress with a slightly trapezoidal cut and a semigloss thread of black trimmings around the round and very closed neckline.

I thought it could be fun, in view of this particular New Year’s Eve (although it is an anniversary that I do not celebrate) to reinvent a dress with something recovered in the house. What do you say?

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